Australia

BT in depth

Suit Fabric and the Super Numbers

The ‘super’ numbers are one of those great marketing inventions of the retail industry, allowing salespeople to bamboozle customers and charge more for a product than it is really worth. The higher the number the better it must be, right?

No.

With suits, and woollen fabrics, the super number is really just a measurement of how fine the wool has been spun to make the fabric for the suit or jacket. The higher the number, the finer the fabric. Beyond this though, there really isn’t any relevance to the super numbers. A poor quality wool can be spun very finely, and exquisite wool can be spun less fine. Think of Harris or Donegal Tweeds; these are amazing fabrics that are certainly very coarsely spun, but are spun from the some of the finest wools available.

This is why some S100s suit fabric feels far superior to the S150s suit some bloke at work is telling you he picked up for a bargain from a traveling salesman or on his last holiday to south-east Asia.

The other thing to note, that if wool is spun too finely it becomes impractical for regular wear, and will wear out too quickly. With fabric, like anything in life, you pay for quality. The better the quality of wool in your suit, the better the suit will last and the better the drape should be on your body.

The bottom line is, don’t worry too much about the super ratings, if the fabric feels nice and you like the patterns and colours, buy it. Our next article in this series will cover perhaps the most important consideration for you when buying a suit, the fit.

 

 

BT in depth, ask braddon tailors

Which Jacket Canvas Is For Me?

In our previous article in this series looked at what a jacket’s canvas actually is, this article will look at when the different types of canvas might be used. 

Despite traditional preferences for a full-floating canvas, it is important to remember that this isn’t always best (at Braddon Tailors we prefer a half canvas jacket in our suits, more on this below).

Firstly, a full canvas jacket is probably superior in terms of fit and quality but costs significantly more. A full canvas also makes the jacket heavier and importantly for Australia and the tropics, hotter. In these conditions a full canvassed suit is probably too warm for much of the year, so you’ll either get less wear out of the jacket or be uncomfortable wearing it.

Braddon Tailors jackets are created with a preference for a half-canvas. Jackets with a half-canvas, we believe, have many of the benefits of a full-canvas fit, while also being more appropriate for warmer climates, and also allows an added price benefit. This half-canvas also allows us to create our softer, signature Acton Cut because there is less layering through the jacket. We are also able to construct a full canvas suit for you, where the canvas extends through the entire jacket, if you prefer.

A well crafted fused jacket, or jacket with no canvas can also be great for linen or cotton blazers for that incredibly unstructured spring and summer look; where breathing is a priority. In short, if in doubt we believe you should go a half-canvas; but feel free to arrange an appointment with a Braddon Tailors designer to discuss your particular needs further.

Our next article in the series will look at wool suit fabrics, and those pesky Super numbers.

picture credit: askandyaboutclothes.com

picture credit: askandyaboutclothes.com