Of all the things that go towards a great suit, then perhaps the most important is the fit. If you remember one thing about suits, then remember that the fit is king.
Before you worry about the construction, fabric, or even price (within reason) worry about the fit. There are many reasons why a garment (and suit) might not fit you very well, and the only way to avoid all of these issues is to get a made-to-measure or bespoke suit made.
This is where the Braddon Tailors designers, and our ability to be able to design a garment that will suit your own personal style (and not just copy someone else’s) and will be created from your own body measurements and with consideration of your posture and body shape.
That said, there are certain things to look out for:
- The most important thing is that the suit fits in the shoulders and through the upper chest.
The seam of where the jacket body and the sleeve head meet should sit right on top of your shoulder joint. If this seam isn’t placed here you are going to restrict your range of movement in the jacket, as well as running into problems with collapsing jacket structure after a short period of wear.
You also need to ensure that the upper chest piece is either not to big or to small. If too big, you will notice that the lapels will gape at the front of the chest and there will be lots of excess fabric through the jacket (you will also run the risk of looking like you are wearing your big brother’s old suit).
If the jacket chest is too small then this will be very obvious to all involved. The fabric will pull through the chest, waist and shoulders at the front and the back of the jacket, while the lapels will develop a buckle or kink in them and not sit flatly down your chest.
A good guide to ensuring the chest is the correct size is by, with the top button of your jacket done up, you are able to snugly fit your right fist inside the jacket at the point of your left chest.
These are the two most important aspects of the jacket fit, as they are extremely difficult and costly alterations to make to an existing jacket.
- The second aspect to look out for with the length of the jacket is the length of the jacket through the body.
Often we will see many men and women with jackets that are far too long (usually symptomatic of buying a jacket that is too large) or which has been cut very short (leading to a distinct blousing of the bottom hem).
A quick an easy way for gentlemen to check the length of their jacket is that it should at the front reach roughly to the line of your knuckles, while at the back it should be around 1 cm longer than the lowest part of your seat.
For women, it is a little trickier, and depends largely on the style of jacket you are after. A good guide is for a longer blazer, it should reach to around half way down your seat at the back and for a shorter blazer it should extend around 6 cm below your hips.
For both men and women the hem of your jacket should be nice and flat to the floor when you are wearing it. If there is an angle, then the jacket has not been cut with consideration to your body shape or posture.
- Keeping with the theme of length, the next most important aspect of your jacket is the length of the sleeves. On a properly cut jacket, with your arms resting by your side, the jacket should extend no further than the crease of your wrist (we would suggest potentially even a centimeter shorter than this.
- For trousers, the length of the leg is equally important, with the hem just kissing the top of your shoe being the perfect length. Any longer and shorter and it will throw off the balance of your entire body, and it will ruin the look of an otherwise great suit.